Museums

Thessaloniki holds its history in a cluster of museums that span the whole sweep of the city's life, from ancient Macedonia to Byzantium and the modern port. The Archaeological Museum is the natural starting point. It spans the prehistoric era to the Roman period and is known above all for its Macedonian treasures, among them gold wreaths and jewellery from royal tombs and the Derveni Krater, a magnificent bronze mixing vessel of the fourth century BC, found in a grave north of the city and decorated with scenes of Dionysus and his followers. Visitors will find that the displays are clear and well labelled, and the collection gives a good sense of the wealth of ancient Macedonia and its links with the wider Greek world.

Adjacent to it, in a modern building on the same avenue, the Museum of Byzantine Culture is devoted to the thousand years in which Thessaloniki was one of the main cities of the Byzantine empire. Its halls display icons, mosaics, carved marble, jewellery, manuscripts and objects from tombs and churches, arranged to show how religion and daily life changed through the centuries. The building was designed with care, and the dim, low-lit galleries encourage a slow pace. It is a good companion to the city's Byzantine churches, many of which are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

On the waterfront stands the White Tower, the city's symbol, which now houses an exhibition about Thessaloniki’s long history. The displays move upward through the floors, with models, images and objects that follow the city from its foundation in the fourth century BC through Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and modern times, and the roof gives a view over the harbour and the Thermaic Gulf. It is a short walk from the museum quarter along the promenade.

For something lighter, the Museum of Illusions provides a playful stop, with optical tricks and interactive rooms that suit families and anyone who wants a break from antiquities. Other collections in the city, including those on Jewish history, photography and the city's recent past, add more variety for visitors with time.

The main museums cluster in the central part of the city, and the Archaeological and Byzantine museums are close enough to be visited on the same morning. Opening days and hours vary by site and by season, and admission arrangements differ, so it is sensible to check locally before planning. A good approach is to start with the Archaeological Museum, move on to the Byzantine collection and finish with a walk to the White Tower and the waterfront.