Old Town (Kato Pano) of Galaxidi

Galaxidi sits on a sheltered double harbour on the Gulf of Itea, on the north side of the Gulf of Corinth in Phocis, and for a time in the nineteenth century it was one of the busiest shipbuilding and shipping towns in Greece. The Old Town, which grew up around the harbour and on the slopes behind, is a quiet district of stone houses, courtyards and narrow lanes that still carries the marks of that prosperity. Many of the large houses were built by sea captains and shipowners, with high walls, neoclassical details and gardens that overlook the water.

Galaxidi's story is one of the great maritime tales of the Greek mainland. Local shipyards built hundreds of vessels, and the town's captains traded across the Mediterranean and the Black Sea. During the war of independence, Galaxidi's fleet joined the fight against the Ottoman Empire, and the town suffered for it, as it was destroyed twice, in 1821 and in 1825-26. The ruins were rebuilt, and in the second half of the nineteenth century the town had another golden age, until the arrival of steamships, which favoured larger ports, brought decline.

The Old Town's lanes reward slow walking. Beneath the walls of the houses, courtyards open through low, old gates and are shaded by trees and bright with flowers. Quiet streets climb from the harbour past small shops and little churches, and in many places you can look back to the sea between the roofs. The Church of Agios Nikolaos, dedicated to the patron saint of sailors, and the church of Agia Paraskevi are among the best known, and their icons and carved wooden screens show the wealth of the shipowners who paid for them.

The Maritime and Historical Museum of Galaxidi, in a nineteenth-century building in the town, tells the maritime story with ship models, instruments, charts, paintings and photographs, and gives a clear idea of the scale of the town's shipping. It is a good starting point for a walk. Beyond the museum, the waterfront has cafes and tavernas serving fresh fish, and the harbour is full of small boats.

Galaxidi is a short drive from Itea and Delphi, so it combines well with a day at the ancient sanctuary. The Old Town is free to explore at any time of day. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbles and slopes, and go in the morning or late afternoon when the light is gentler. Quiet weekdays outside summer suit it best.