Panagia Episkopi

Panagia Episkopi stands among the fields and vineyards of central Santorini, beside the village of Mesa Gonia, and it is considered the oldest surviving church on the island. It was built around the end of the eleventh century or the early twelfth, in the Byzantine period, and local tradition associates its foundation with the Byzantine emperor Alexios I Komnenos. The name Episkopi means bishopric, and the church was the seat of the island's bishop in Byzantine times, when the settlement of Gonia was the island's religious centre.

The building is a cross-in-square church with a central dome carried on four piers, a design typical of middle Byzantine architecture. It is a simple, solid structure of stone, with a low profile, thick walls, small windows and rounded apses at the eastern end, and the proportions are very different from the whitewashed chapels seen elsewhere on the island. Much of the exterior has been plastered and whitened in the Cycladic manner over time, though the original shapes remain clear. Inside, the dome and vaults were painted with wall paintings in several periods, and some fragments can still be seen. Carved marble pieces from earlier buildings were reused in the walls and the sanctuary.

The church belongs to a particular chapter of Santorini’s history. After the Fourth Crusade in 1204, Latin lords took over the island, and the Orthodox and Catholic communities lived side by side for centuries. In later centuries the church was repaired and added to, which helps explain its mix of layers.

Mesa Gonia is also known for its vineyards, a short distance inland, and the road from Kamari or Perissa climbs through fields of low, basket-trained vines. Profitis Ilias, the highest mountain on the island, rises to the south, with a monastery at its summit. A visit to the church combines easily with a walk through the village and a stop at one of the local wineries.

A car or taxi is the easiest way to reach the church. The interior is small, and quiet respect is expected. Opening times vary, so ask locally if the door is closed. Dress modestly, and allow around half an hour.