Santo Winery

Santo Wines is a cooperative winery perched on the caldera edge near the village of Pyrgos, on the island of Santorini, and it is one of the best places to understand what makes the wine here unusual. It was founded in 1947 as an association of local growers, who pooled their grapes to produce and market wine together, and it remains a major force in Greek wine, and in Santorini's industry in particular. The building looks over the caldera with a long terrace that faces the volcanic islands and the Aegean Sea.

The vines are the draw. Santorini's vineyards are planted in volcanic ash and pumice, with almost no rain, and the old vines have never been hit by phylloxera, the pest that devastated European vineyards in the nineteenth century. Instead of trellises, growers train the vines into low circular baskets called kouloura, which keep the grapes inside and protect them from the wind and the sun. The best-known grape is Assyrtiko, a white variety that keeps high acidity in the heat, and it gives wines with a mineral, citrus character that has made the island famous.

Visitors usually taste a flight of several wines. Assyrtiko is the core, but there is also Nykteri, a traditional style whose name refers to the night work of harvesting and pressing in the cool hours, usually aged in oak, and Vinsanto, the sweet wine made from grapes dried in the sun before pressing. Red and rosé wines from local varieties are available too. Staff talk through the grapes and the process, and the shop sells bottles, olive oil and local foods.

Sunset is the busiest time. The terrace faces west over the caldera, and the light across the cliffs and water creates the setting that many people come for. Tables fill early, and a reservation for a sunset slot is wise in summer. Earlier in the day the place is quieter and the view of the vineyards and the sea is equally attractive.

The winery is a short drive from Fira, and most people arrive by car or taxi, though some tours include it with other stops in the south. Tasting fees depend on the selection. If you plan to drive afterwards, pace the flight or arrange a driver, since the roads along the cliff are winding. A small tasting with a view is a relaxed way to finish a day of sightseeing in the villages of central Santorini.