Vlychada Beach

Vlychada Beach lies on the south coast of Santorini, and it looks unlike the rest of the island's shoreline. The sand is dark and volcanic, the sea is deep blue, and behind the beach tall cliffs of white and cream pumice rise straight from the shore. Wind and rain have carved them into strange ridges, towers and hollows, so the scene seems more like a lunar landscape than a holiday beach. Many visitors compare it to a stage set, and it is popular with photographers, especially at sunset.

The cliffs are made of the pumice and ash thrown out by the great Minoan eruption of the second millennium BC, and they show how deep the deposits are. Here the layers are pale rather than the red and black of the caldera, which gives the beach its pale backdrop against the dark sand. At the edge of the cliffs, the sea has worn small caves and arches. Walking along the shoreline gives close views of the formations, and the pumice stones lying around are light enough to float.

The beach sits beside the small marina of Vlychada, with fishing boats and yachts, and a few tavernas serve fish and local wine. Nearby is the old tomato cannery, a derelict factory building whose chimney and ruined walls are a reminder of the island's tomato industry in the twentieth century. It is quiet compared with the larger beaches at Kamari to the north-east and Perissa to the east, with fewer sunbeds and less commercial development, so it is a place to enjoy calm rather than nightlife.

Swimming is good in clear water, though the black sand heats up quickly, so shoes are useful in the middle of the day. The beach is partly organised, with sunbeds and umbrellas in places, and there is little natural shade, so a hat and sunscreen matter. Water and snacks are best bought in advance or at the taverna. The seabed is gently sloping, and the water can be a bit cooler than at other spots.

The beach is open and free, and it is easy to reach by car or bus, with parking near the marina. The best moments are early morning and late afternoon, when the light picks out the shapes in the cliffs, and the whole area is calm. Combine it with a walk along the shore toward the marina or with a drink at a taverna as the sun goes down over the Aegean Sea.