Filoti

Filoti is the largest village in the interior of Naxos, spread over the lower slopes of Mount Zas at an altitude of around four hundred metres, about twenty kilometres from the island's main town. The houses, many of them built of grey stone and painted white, climb the hill in an amphitheatre, with a long main road running along the lower edge and narrow lanes branching uphill. It is a working village with farmers, shepherds and shopkeepers, and it has a more lived-in feel than the villages that are chiefly visited by tourists.

The centre of Filoti is its main square, shaded by plane trees and fed by a spring. The church of the Panagia Filotitissa, one of the largest on the island, stands at the top of the village, and its steps and courtyard overlook the rooftops and the valley. The interior has a rich wooden iconostasis and many icons, and its bell tower is a landmark for walkers on the hillside. Smaller chapels are scattered across the slope, along with old houses with carved doorways and balconies, and a number of fountains.

Filoti is the best base for walking in the island's mountains. The summit of Mount Zas, at just over a thousand metres, is the highest point on Naxos and in the Cyclades, and tradition links it to Zeus, who was said to have been raised or worshipped here. A path leads up from the village, passing a cave on the slopes known as the Cave of Zas, a cool grotto with stalactites that was a place of worship in ancient times. The ascent takes a few hours and rewards walkers with a view over the whole island and its neighbours, and the descent can be made through terraces and olive groves.

The surrounding countryside is full of ancient and medieval remains, including towers, chapels and the ruins of an ancient temple of Demeter at nearby Sangri, so the area suits those who enjoy slow exploration. Cafes and tavernas around the square serve grilled meat, local cheese, honey and vegetables from the valley, and shops sell local products such as cheese, raki and herbs.

The village is reached by road from Naxos Town, a drive of about half an hour, with buses running through it in season. The air is cooler than on the coast, which is pleasant in summer, and the evenings are quiet. Wear sturdy shoes for the walking paths, and carry water on the mountain, since the hike is exposed.