Laiki Agora (Local Market)

Every Greek town has its own market, a laiki agora, the 'people's market', a weekly street market where farmers and small producers set up stalls under awnings and sell directly to shoppers. In Chania the Laiki Agora is a different world from the polished shops of the old town and the covered Municipal Market: it is a working neighbourhood event, loud, practical and full of local people with shopping trolleys. It gives a view of how Cretans buy food that tourist streets cannot.

Stalls usually open early in the morning and begin to close in the early afternoon, so the best time to go is before about noon. The market's schedule and exact location can change by season and by neighbourhood, and the stalls shift between days, so it is sensible to ask locally or at your accommodation. The producers, known in Greek as paragogoi, sell what they grow or make, which is why the stalls follow the agricultural calendar.

In spring and summer the tables are heaped with tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines, peppers, courgettes and herbs, along with apricots, peaches, melons and figs. Autumn brings grapes, pomegranates and wild greens, called horta, and winter brings oranges, lemons, leafy vegetables and chestnuts. Other stalls offer cheese, olives, olive oil, thyme honey, eggs, bread and sometimes fresh fish, and household goods such as clothing, kitchenware and plants appear at the edges.

The atmosphere is part of the experience. Sellers shout prices and compare offers, regular customers chat and bargain, and small purchases are weighed on hanging scales. Tasting is common and visitors can often try a slice of fruit or cheese before buying. Carrying a bag, small change and some basic Greek greetings helps; prices are generally clearly marked or quickly stated.

Those staying in an apartment with a kitchen can buy ingredients here for the week, while others can pick up fruit, nuts and cheese for a picnic. The market is free to enter, and the mornings are lively, with the biggest crowds before lunch. It is a useful complement to the Municipal Market and the old town, and gives a more rounded picture of daily life in the city.