Samaria Gorge

Cut into the White Mountains, a deep cleft drops from the Omalos plateau toward the Libyan Sea, and walking through it is one of the classic days out on Crete, and one of the great hikes in Greece. Samaria Gorge forms the core of a national park and has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1981. The gorge is about 16 kilometres long, with the walking route running roughly 13 kilometres within the park from the top entrance to the south coast, followed by a few more kilometres to the village of Agia Roumeli.

The trail begins at the Xyloskalo, whose name means 'wooden staircase', a steep zigzag descent from around 1,250 metres, with views of the peaks and cypress woods above. Far below, the path levels out and follows a dry riverbed, crossing it repeatedly on stones and small bridges. Pine and cypress give way to rock walls, and in the middle section you pass the abandoned village of Samaria, whose inhabitants were moved out when the park was created, and a small chapel dedicated to Saint Mary.

The best-known moment is the Iron Gates, or Portes, near the end, where the walls close to a passage only a few metres wide and rise almost vertically to around 300 metres. After this the gorge opens out, and the path continues down to Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea. The park is a refuge for the kri-kri, the Cretan wild goat, and you may glimpse one on the rocks, though often at a distance.

Hikers should treat it as a serious day out: most people need roughly five to seven hours, and the distance, the long descent and the heat can tire legs, so good shoes with grip, plenty of water, a hat and snacks matter; there are springs along the route but few facilities. Stops are marked, and rangers monitor walkers. The gorge is open seasonally, normally from 1 May to the end of October, and it is closed in bad weather or when water is high. Camping, overnight stays, fires and swimming in the gorge's streams are not allowed.

At Agia Roumeli, most walkers swim and eat before taking a boat along the coast to Chora Sfakion or Sougia, from which buses connect back to the north coast (check the last boat and bus times before you set out). Many people book organised day trips from the main resorts, which handle the transport at both ends. Starting at first light avoids the worst heat and crowds.