Acheron River Springs

The Acheron River Springs rise in the countryside of Thesprotia, in Epirus in north-western Greece, near the village of Glyki, where cold water pours from the foot of a hillside into a green gorge. The springs are the source of the river that the ancient Greeks called the Acheron, one of the rivers of the Underworld. Homer and later writers place the entrance to Hades in this landscape, and the river's name has been linked to the idea of sorrow and passage between worlds ever since. The setting is far less gloomy than the Greek myth suggests, with plane trees, clear water and the sound of the stream.

Today the springs are one of the most refreshing places in Epirus on a hot summer day. The water comes from underground channels in the limestone mountains and stays very cold all year round, so the stream is cool even in July and August. In places, the river is shallow enough to wade, and tavernas have set their tables on platforms built over the stream, so you can eat grilled trout or lamb with your feet in the water. The surrounding forest is dense and shady, and the air is noticeably cooler than on the coast.

The main activity is walking in or along the river. A path runs through the gorge, and in some sections it follows the water, with stepping stones and low bridges. Visitors with water shoes and a sense of adventure can wade upstream through narrow gorges, where the walls rise on both sides and the water is waist-deep in places. The experience is cold and exhilarating, and local operators run guided walks during the season. For those who prefer to stay dry, the footpaths along the banks are easy.

The springs are linked in the story of the area with the nearby Necromanteion of Acheron, the ancient oracle of the dead, and the Acheron's mouth at Ammoudia, where the river reaches the Ionian Sea. A visit to all three can be made in a day, giving a sense of how the myth ties together the landscape from source to sea. The coastal town of Parga is the usual base for visitors, and the springs are reached by road inland, a drive of some forty minutes to an hour, depending on traffic. From Ioannina or Preveza it takes roughly an hour, and visitors from Athens should plan for a much longer journey. A car is the easiest way, and public transport is limited.

Parking is available near the springs, and the site is open throughout the day. Late spring brings green forest and good water flow, summer is the most popular season, and autumn is quieter. Wear shoes that can get wet, and bring a towel.