Venetian Castle of Parga

Above the colourful houses and curved bay of Parga on the Ionian Sea, the Venetian Castle of Parga crowns a rocky hill, and its walls have watched over this stretch of the Ionian coast for centuries. Parga is in Epirus, on the mainland opposite Corfu, and its position has made it important in many historical struggles. The castle on the hill has medieval origins, and the town grew on the slopes below. The Venetians, who held Parga for much of the period from the fifteenth century until 1797, strengthened the fortress in the sixteenth century against Ottoman attack and pirate raids, and what survives is largely the work of their engineers.

The fortress and the town went through several hands after the fall of Venice, passing briefly to the French, the Russians and the British. In 1819 Britain handed Parga over to Ali Pasha of Ioannina, the powerful Ottoman governor of Epirus, and a famous and sad episode followed: many of the inhabitants chose to leave rather than live under his rule, taking the bones of their ancestors and their icons with them. Ali Pasha rebuilt parts of the castle, and emblems from his time can still be seen in the walls.

The visit is a short climb from the town along a stepped path, and the effort is rewarded with some of the best views in the area. From the ramparts, there is a wide panorama over the harbour, the old town's red roofs, the island of Panagia with its small chapel, the nearby beaches and the forested mountains behind. The interior is a mix of ruined walls, passages, dark chambers, cisterns and inscriptions, with some areas partly restored, and visitors can wander through them at their own pace. There is also an old tunnel linked to the sea, a reminder that the castle was designed for defence and supply.

Because the site is open and mostly unsheltered, it is best to visit in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the heat is bearable. Shoes with grip are useful, since stones are uneven and some steps are worn. Visitors should keep an eye on children near the walls and drops.

The castle makes a good first stop in Parga, as it helps explain the geography of the bay and the town. It can easily be combined with a walk through the old streets, a swim at Valtos Beach and a day trip to the Necromanteion of Acheron and the springs of the Acheron river, which lie a short drive away.