Ancient Theatre of Thorikos

The Ancient Theatre of Thorikos lies on the southern slopes of Mount Velatouri, on the coast of Attica just north of the modern town of Lavrio, also spelled Lavrion, and it is one of the most unusual theatres in Greece. It is thought to date from the late sixth or early fifth century BCE, which makes it one of the earliest known theatres, built before the great stone theatres of Athens took their final form. Its shape is its signature: the rows of seats do not form a neat semicircle but a long, stretched curve with straight sections, giving the auditorium an elongated, almost rectangular look.

The theatre was carved into the hillside and built of local stone, with rows of seats set on the natural slope and an orchestra, the performance area, at the base. Later alterations changed the original layout, and a small temple and an altar stood near the orchestra, which suggests that performances were part of religious festivals honouring the gods. The seating could hold a few thousand people, which is a large figure for a small community, and shows how important the settlement was. Today the stone seats are weathered but still easy to read, and from the upper rows there is a long view over the sea and the island of Makronisos.

Thorikos was a prosperous place. It was one of the old townships of Attica, and its wealth came from the silver mines of the Lavreotiki region, which supported much of Athens' power. The site holds more than the theatre. On the hillside around it are Mycenaean tholos tombs, the foundations of houses, workshops and washing floors where silver-bearing ore was processed, and a Doric temple, so the landscape is full of traces of daily life and work over thousands of years. Excavations by the Belgian School at Athens, which have continued for decades, have revealed much of this.

A visit is a quiet affair. The site is managed by the Greek Ministry of Culture, but it is not a large attraction, and there are few visitors, so you can walk around freely. Paths link the main areas, and signs explain the layout. In spring the hillside is covered in wildflowers, and the view of the sea is calm.

It is easy to reach from Athens, about an hour by car, and it combines well with the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion and the Mineralogical Museum in Lavrio. Wear sturdy shoes for the rocky ground, take water and a hat, since shade is scarce, and go in the morning when it is cool.