Neoclassical Mansions

Ermoupoli is the one place in the Cyclades where the architecture is not whitewashed and cube-shaped. Founded in the 1820s by refugees from other Aegean islands and Asia Minor, the town grew into the leading port of Greece in the nineteenth century, and its merchants and shipowners built grand neoclassical mansions that rival those of Athens. The town's streets rise in terraces from the harbour, and the mansions line them in layers of pale stone, marble steps, cast-iron balconies and tall shuttered windows. Today it looks more like a small Italian or Central European city than a Greek island town, which is part of its appeal.

Several architects shaped the town. The best known is Ernst Ziller, a German-born architect who worked across Greece and designed the Town Hall on Miaouli Square, with its steps, columns and clock tower. The Apollo Theatre, opened in the 1860s and modelled on Milan’s La Scala at a smaller scale, stands nearby and still hosts performances. Behind them, quiet streets lead past mansions with carved door frames, painted ceilings and gardens, many of which are now museums, offices or restored houses. Some have small plaques giving their history in Greek and English.

The Vaporia district, on the eastern side of the harbour, is the most romantic quarter. Its name comes from vapori, the steamships that its owners ran, and the shipowners built tall houses facing the sea, with balconies and marble terraces right on the water. Walking the paved path along the shore at sunset, with the waves close at your feet, is a highlight, and the scene recalls Venice, though the architecture is firmly Greek neoclassical.

The best way to enjoy the mansions is slowly on foot, with a map and a camera. Streets are paved with marble or stone, and cars are limited in the centre, so walking is easy though uphill in many parts. Climb toward the quarter of Ano Syros for views back over the rooftops to see how the town fits together. Several of the houses have been restored with the help of local heritage programmes, and some of them have information boards with historical notes.

Many of the buildings are private and cannot be entered, so the pleasure is mainly in the facades. Allow a morning for the central streets and the waterfront, with a break in a cafe on the square.