Port of Ermoupoli

The Port of Ermoupoli is the main entrance to Syros and the working harbour of Ermoupoli, the capital of the Cyclades. The town itself was founded in the 1820s, during the Greek War of Independence, by refugees from Chios, Psara and Asia Minor who settled on the shore beneath the old hill town. Because of its sheltered harbour and its position at the centre of the Aegean, it quickly became the busiest port in Greece, handling trade and passengers between Europe and the Near East before Piraeus took over later in the nineteenth century.

That commercial past is visible around the harbour. Warehouses, merchants' offices and shipping houses line the waterfront, and the large neoclassical buildings behind it, including the town hall designed by the architect Ernst Ziller, reflect the wealth of the period. Miaouli Square, a short walk from the quay, is the civic centre, with palm trees, cafes and the Apollo Theater nearby. The Neorion shipyards on the western side of the harbour, founded in the nineteenth century, have long been among the most important in the Aegean, and the cranes and slipways are still visible.

Today the port is used for ferries and high-speed boats linking Syros with Piraeus and with Mykonos, Paros, Tinos and other islands, and cruise ships sometimes anchor off the harbour. The ferry quay is next to the town centre, so passengers step off almost directly into the waterfront cafes. The crossing from Piraeus takes a few hours, depending on the type of vessel. Ticket offices and travel agencies sit along the front, and luggage can be stored at some of them.

Along the quay, the daily life of Ermoupoli goes on: fishermen mend nets, locals stroll in the evening, and cafes spill onto the pavement. The curve of the bay, with the two hills of the old town, Ano Syros and Vrontado, rising behind the houses, is an attractive view. A walk along the front to the Vaporia district, where merchant mansions overlook the water, is a good way to pass time between ferries.

Ferry timetables change with the season, and delays occur in windy weather, so check the schedule and keep some flexibility. Arrive well before departure, as boarding can be busy at the peak of summer. Luggage trolleys are not provided, and the quay is level and easy for suitcases. In winter the port is quiet, the town is lively with residents, and the atmosphere is very different.