Old Harbour (Old Town)

The Old Harbour of Heraklion is the Venetian port of the city, a basin on the north coast of Crete that was developed in the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries when the city was the capital of the Venetian colony. A long breakwater curves around it, and at its end stands the Koules Fortress, a squat sea-facing castle that guarded the entrance. The harbour is no longer the main commercial port, which lies to the east, but it remains a place for fishing boats and small craft, and it has a calm, workaday feeling.

The most distinctive Venetian remains are the arsenals, vaulted ship sheds on the western side of the basin, where galleys were built, repaired and stored. Their arched openings, once fronting the water, were closed by later land filling and are now used for exhibitions. The arches, in thick stone, show how important the shipyard was to the colony. The harbour was also a gateway for the Ottoman navy after 1669, and Ottoman buildings and fountains in the town recall that period.

A walk along the breakwater to the fortress is the best way to see the harbour. The path gives views back across the water to the Venetian walls, the town and the mountains behind, and on clear days a hint of Mount Ida. The route is flat and open, with little shade, and the wind can be strong. In the evening, the light is soft and anglers line the wall. Behind the harbour, a short walk leads to the Venetian Loggia and the lanes of the old town.

Along the waterfront, a row of tavernas and cafes serves grilled fish, octopus and Cretan dishes, and sitting at a harbour-side table with a view of the boats is a pleasant way to spend an hour. Other attractions, such as the Morosini Fountain, the Cathedral of Agios Minas and the Venetian Old Town, are only a few minutes away on foot. The Old Harbour works best as a link between these places, a pause between visits.

The harbour is open to the public at all times, and the walk is free. Fishing boats bring in the catch in the morning, which is a lively time to watch the activity. Keep an eye on the weather if you plan to walk out to the fortress, since waves can break over the breakwater in rough conditions. Heraklion’s rich history is easy to read here, in the combination of Venetian sheds, fortress and working boats.