Pagasetic Gulf

The Pagasetic Gulf is the sheltered inlet of the Aegean that cuts into the coast of Magnesia in Thessaly, and the port city of Volos sits at its head. The gulf is almost enclosed, with the long arm of the Pelion peninsula protecting it from the open sea on the east and a narrow passage in the south leading out to the Aegean. The result is calm, shallow water that has made it a natural harbour since antiquity and a pleasant place for sailing, swimming and fishing, and one of the best-loved stretches of coast in Greece. Greek sailors and fishermen have used it for millennia.

The mountain gives the scene its character. Mount Pelion rises steeply on the eastern side, covered in dark forest, and its villages and small harbours look across the water to the plain and the hills on the other shore. The villages of the Pelion's western coast, among them Agria, Kala Nera, Milina and Afissos, have small beaches and tavernas where fish is served on the water's edge. On the other side the land is flatter, with olive groves and low hills, and the evening light on the water is a famous sight.

Mythology is strongly attached to the gulf. According to tradition, the Argonauts set out from this coast on their voyage to find the Golden Fleece, led by Jason, whose home city was Iolkos, near modern Volos. The ship Argo was said to have been built at Pagasai, an ancient harbour that gave the gulf its name. Today a full-size replica of the Argo stands in Volos, a reminder of the myth. The archaeological sites of Dimini and Sesklo, nearby, show that people have settled around the gulf for thousands of years.

Visitors will find the seafront promenade of Volos the easiest way to enjoy the gulf, with its cafes, tavernas and tsipouro bars serving seafood by the water. Boats leave from the port for the islands of the Sporades, and small excursion boats and sailing trips run in the summer. Volos has a national airport at Nea Anchialos, to the south, which makes access easier, though Athens and Thessaloniki are the main gateways by road and rail.

Because of its sheltered waters and nearby mountain, the gulf is attractive in all seasons. Summer is best for swimming, spring and autumn for walks and drives along the shore, and winter for quiet seaside meals with a view of snow on Pelion.