Aliki Archaeological Site

At the southeastern tip of Thassos, a low peninsula runs out into the sea between two sheltered coves, and on it lies the archaeological site of Aliki, also written Alyki. The setting is as much part of the appeal as the ruins: a rocky headland dotted with pine trees, edged by white marble and turquoise water, with the open Aegean Sea on three sides. Visitors who come at sunset find the stones and the sea tinted in warm colours.

Thassos was famous in antiquity for its marble, a very white, fine-grained stone that was exported around the Mediterranean, and Aliki was one of the centres of the trade. The peninsula was quarried in ancient times, and the cuttings can still be seen along the shore, with blocks and steps left in the rock face where workers extracted material. The marble helped make the island wealthy, and the same stone was used for buildings and statues on Thassos itself. In some places the quarried rock slopes straight into the sea, giving the coast an unusual, sculpted appearance.

The archaeological remains show human activity over a long period. Excavations have uncovered a sanctuary, with the foundations of temples dating from the Archaic period, and traces of buildings and settlement. The remains of early Christian basilicas, with floor plans still visible, point to later use of the site, when a small community lived beside the harbour. The twin coves served as natural harbours, protected from wind and swell, so the place was well suited to the loading of marble onto ships.

The site is open and unfenced in many places, with paths leading through scrub and pines to the main remains, and information boards at some points. Visitors should wear sturdy shoes, since the ground is rocky and uneven, and carry water, as there is little shade. The calm coves are good for swimming, and a small beach and tavernas nearby add to the pleasure of the visit.

The village of Alyki has a few tavernas serving fish, and the road to the site passes through pine woods and marble quarries. It is a quiet part of the island, away from the busier beaches of the north coast, and a visit takes an hour or two. Because opening arrangements vary, it is worth checking locally before going.