Kokkari

Kokkari is a small fishing village on the north coast of Samos, about ten kilometres west of Samos Town, and it has grown into the most popular resort of the island without losing its harbour. The houses are whitewashed, with brightly coloured doors and shutters, and they climb the slopes of the hills behind the bay, among terraced vineyards and pines. At the foot of the green slopes of Mount Ampelos, the setting is lush, and it feels far from the dry look of many a Greek island.

The centre of the village is its small harbour and a rocky promontory where the white Orthodox church of Saint Nicholas stands almost surrounded by the sea. Fishing boats are drawn up beside the quay, tavernas set tables along the waterfront, and a narrow main street of shops and cafes runs behind. The centre is easy to walk around, and the sea is always a few steps away. In the evening the lights of the tavernas reflect on the water and the sunsets over the headland are some of the best on the island.

Kokkari is exposed to the meltemi, the strong summer wind from the north, and that makes the beaches here some of the best in the Aegean for windsurfing. The pebble beach beside the village is usually breezy in the afternoon, when sails fill the bay, and several schools offer lessons and rental. A short distance along the coast, a series of small coves offers calmer swimming and more shelter. Lemonakia, a pretty cove of pebbles and clear water backed by pine trees, is one of the favourites, and Tsamadou Beach and Mykali Beach are other options along the coast.

The countryside behind the village is very attractive. Samos is known for its sweet Muscat wine, made from grapes grown on steep terraces, and wineries and vineyards around Kokkari and the hill villages can be visited. Walking paths lead up through pine forest to mountain villages such as Vourliotes and Manolates, with their stone houses, plane trees and cafes, and the Potami waterfalls and other natural spots are within a short drive.

Kokkari makes a good base for the north of the island, and it has a lively but relaxed atmosphere with plenty of places to eat. Fish, local cheese and Samian wine are the specialities. Summer is busy and the winds are strong in July and August, so spring and early autumn are more peaceful. The village is easily reached by bus and by car from Samos Town, and the road along the coast offers fine views.