Manolates

High on the north slope of Mount Ampelos, also written Ambelos, above the road from Vathy to Kokkari, Manolates is a mountain village of stone houses and shaded lanes that feels far from the heat and crowds of the Samos coast. The climb to reach it is part of the experience: the road winds up through pines and cypresses, with sharp bends and sudden views of the sea, and the temperature drops noticeably as you ascend. The cool air, the scent of pine and the sound of running water make a striking contrast with the dry shoreline below.

The village is built on steep terrain, and its houses of local stone, with tiled roofs and wooden balconies, are stacked up the hillside along paved lanes and stairways. Many of the lanes are best explored on foot, and cars are left at the edge of the village. Streams and springs flow through the settlement, and plane trees shade small squares where cafes and tavernas set out tables. Flowers and climbing plants spill over garden walls, and small Orthodox chapels stand at corners.

Manolates has long been associated with the vine. Samos is famous for its sweet Muscat wine, and the terraced slopes around the village were planted with vines that fed the island's wine trade. Today the village's tavernas serve local dishes with Samian wine, including grilled meats, cheese pies and vegetables from the gardens, and some sell honey, preserves and herbs to take home. The village is also a starting point for walks on the slopes of the mountain, through woods and along old paths, with views of the Aegean Sea.

A visit usually takes a few hours, long enough to walk the lanes, have lunch and take photographs. The streets are steep and paved with uneven stones, so comfortable shoes are important, and it is wise to bring water, though cafes are available. Visitors with a car should drive carefully on the narrow road, which has tight bends and drops.

The village combines well with a stop at the coast. Kokkari, with its harbour and beach, and the nearby waterfalls at Potami lie within easy reach, and the Heraion and the Tunnel of Eupalinos are on the south side of the island. For anyone looking for a calm, shaded day in the mountains of Samos, Manolates is a rewarding choice.