Mount Lycabettus

Mount Lycabettus rises about 277 metres above the centre of Athens, a limestone hill whose pale peak is visible from most of the city and whose summit gives the widest view of it. Greek myth says the hill began as a rock dropped by the goddess Athena when she was carrying it to the Acropolis, and the name Lykabettos is often linked to wolves, though the origin is uncertain. In the modern city it sits above the neighbourhoods of Kolonaki and Exarchia, forming a green, rocky island that interrupts the grid of apartment blocks.

The summit is crowned by the small whitewashed Chapel of Agios Georgios, which was built in the nineteenth century and is a focus for services on its feast day, around 23 April. Near the chapel are a viewing terrace, a cafe and restaurant, and the open-air Lycabettus Theatre, a venue for concerts in summer. From the platform, the Acropolis and the Parthenon stand out clearly to the southwest, with the sea and the islands of the Saronic Gulf along the horizon. On clear days you can also see Mount Hymettus and Mount Penteli, and the port of Piraeus.

There are two main ways up. The funicular starts from a station at Aristippou Street, in Kolonaki, and runs through a tunnel inside the hill to the summit in a few minutes. The alternative is to walk, either the steep stepped paths from Kolonaki or Dexameni, or the longer, gentler zigzag route from the north side. The climb takes roughly twenty to thirty minutes and is shaded in part by pines and cypresses, which also shelter birds and, in the quieter corners, tortoises and the occasional wild fox.

Late afternoon is the favourite time, as light softens over the rooftops and the city begins to light up. Sunset can draw crowds around the terrace, so arriving early gives the best viewing spot. At midday in summer the rocky slope has little shade, so bring water and a hat. Paths can be loose and slippery, and the top is windy at times, so a light layer is useful.

Pair the hill with a stroll in Kolonaki, whose cafes and boutiques are right at the foot, or with the Benaki Museum a short distance away. In clear weather, a visit around dusk gives both daylight and night-time views of the city.