Potami Waterfalls

The northwest corner of Samos is wilder and greener than the resort coasts to the east, and the Potami Waterfalls are one of its quiet draws. The falls lie in a small wooded gorge behind the pebble beach of Potami, a short distance west of Karlovasi, the island's second port. A stream runs down from the slopes through plane trees and bushes into a series of rock pools, with the main fall dropping into a cool, clear pool where swimmers can cool off.

The walk is the pleasure of the visit. A path leaves from the beach and follows the stream bed uphill, crossing it in places on stones and rock slabs. It is short, and most people with reasonable footing reach the main pool in well under half an hour, though the rocks can be wet and slippery. Sturdy sandals or light trail shoes are much better than flip-flops, and anyone who dislikes scrambling over boulders should look at the first stretch before committing. Because the gorge is shaded, it stays noticeably cooler than the beach.

Water volume depends on the season. After winter and spring rain the stream is lively and the fall is at its best, while in late summer it can be reduced to a trickle, so the early part of the year is the safest time for a spectacular view. Even a thin flow keeps the vegetation lush, and the gorge is a good place to hear birds and cicadas rather than traffic.

Potami Beach itself is long, pebbly and relaxed, with a couple of tavernas, and makes a natural swimming stop before or after the gorge walk. Karlovasi, a few minutes away, has the old tanneries that made it one of the island's industrial towns, and harbour cafes for a lunch stop.

Samos is often described as one of the greenest islands of the Mediterranean, and this coast shows why. Combine a morning at the falls with a drive along the north coast toward Kokkari, or head into the hills to Manolates for a village lunch. Bring water, sun protection and a towel, and take rubbish back with you.