The Mani in Brief
The Mani is the central of the three peninsulas at the southern end of the Peloponnese. It is the southern extension of the Taygetus range and runs for about 45 kilometres to Cape Tainaron, also called Cape Matapan, the southernmost point of mainland Greece. Administratively it is split between West Mani in Messenia and East Mani in Laconia, and traditionally between Outer Mani in the north-west and Inner and Lower Mani further south.
For walkers, the difference between these zones matters. Outer Mani, around Kardamyli and Stoupa, is greener, with olive groves, oak and cypress, and stone villages on the slopes. Inner Mani, south of Areopoli, lies in a rain shadow and is much drier and barer, with fortified tower houses standing on rocky hillsides above the sea.
Kardamyli's Marked Trail Network
Kardamyli is the best base for walking. The Peloponnese regional tourism site lists twelve waymarked routes around the village, mostly on old stone mule paths, or kalderimia, linking the hill villages of the Taygetus foothills. Many are short: Proasteio to Kardamyli is listed at about an hour, and the loop through Palia Kardamyli, Agia Sofia and Petrovouni at about an hour and a quarter. Longer options include Kardamyli to Stavropigio at about two and a half hours, and a route via the monasteries of Lykakio and Soter to Kato Chora and Vyros at under four hours.
The routes pass old churches, water mills and stone bridges, and several start or finish at villages with a café or taverna. Old Kardamyli, just above the modern village, has the restored Mourtzinos tower complex. The house of the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor, who lived here and wrote about the region in his book Mani, is now owned by the Benaki Museum.
Vyros Gorge
The Vyros gorge cuts down from the Taygetus to the sea at Kardamyli and is the area's signature walk. Several routes use it, from a short walk up the lower gorge to the monasteries on its sides, to long day routes that go deep into it and climb out to the villages of Exochori or Tseria. Lengths and difficulty vary a great deal depending on the route, so decide in advance which section you are doing.
The gorge floor is rocky and can be slippery after rain, and there are no facilities. Carry all the water and food you need, and avoid it during or after heavy rain.
The Taygetus
The highest summit of the Taygetus, Profitis Ilias, rises to 2,404 metres, the highest point in the Peloponnese. Climbing it is a serious mountain day rather than a village walk, usually approached from the Laconian side, and it is often done with an overnight at a mountain refuge. Snow can lie on the upper slopes from winter into spring. Unless you are an experienced mountain walker, go with a local guide or organised group.
Inner Mani and Cape Tainaron
South of Areopoli the landscape changes. The villages are clusters of stone tower houses built by rival clans; Vathia, on a hill above the sea, is the most photographed. The Greek state has protected many of these settlements, and the area is dotted with small Byzantine churches, many of them locked; ask locally about keys.
The classic walk here is to the lighthouse at Cape Tainaron. It starts near the small church of Asomati above Kokkinogia, close to Porto Kagio, and passes the remains of the ancient sanctuary of Poseidon and a cave traditionally associated with the entrance to the underworld. The path to the lighthouse is roughly 2.5 kilometres each way and takes about an hour. It is completely exposed, with no shade or water.
Between walks, the Diros caves near Pyrgos Dirou, with boat tours through flooded passages, and the harbour town of Gerolimenas are worth a stop.
When to Go and What to Bring
Spring, from March to May, is the best time: wild flowers, clear air and moderate temperatures. Autumn, from late September into November, is the other good season. From June to August, walking in the Mani is hot and exposed, particularly in Inner Mani; if you go in summer, start at dawn and keep routes short.
Wear proper walking shoes with good soles, since the kalderimia are uneven and the limestone is sharp and loose. Carry more water than seems necessary, sun protection and a printed or offline map; waymarking is good on the Kardamyli network but less consistent elsewhere. Stray dogs and guard dogs are sometimes encountered near villages and farms; keep your distance. A car is the easiest way to reach trailheads, though Kardamyli and Stoupa are on the bus route from Kalamata.
