Aspropotamou Gorge

Aspropotamos is a mountain district in the west of Thessaly, in the Trikala regional unit, where the upper course of the Acheloos River cuts through the southern Pindus range. The name means white river, and it refers both to the river and to the pale limestone and the foamy water that rushes through its upper valley. There is no single marked sight called Aspropotamou Gorge that tourists can tick off, though the river does cut gorges, so the pleasure lies in the landscape as a whole: steep valleys, beech and fir forest, stone bridges and high villages with slate and stone roofs.

The Acheloos is the longest river in Greece, and it appears in myth as a river god, the father of the Sirens and, in some versions, of the Nymphs of springs and fountains. Rising in the Pindus, it flows south and west to the Ionian Sea, and in this section it runs through narrow gorges and past remote hamlets. The scenery is wild: the slopes are covered with pine, oak, fir and beech, and the area is part of the territory where brown bears, wolves and other large animals still live in the Pindus forests.

The villages are the cultural centre of the region. Chaliki (Haliki), Anthousa, Krania and others were once the summer pastures and winter bases of the Vlach shepherd communities who moved flocks seasonally across the mountains. Their houses are built of stone, with steep roofs and carved wooden balconies, and their churches and fountains reflect the mountain way of life. A few small guesthouses and taverns welcome visitors, serving grilled meat, pies, local cheese and mountain tea.

Activities include walking, horse riding, jeep tours and fishing, and the rivers and streams offer cool water in summer. The roads are narrow and winding, with sharp bends and few services, so a full tank and a careful pace are advisable. In winter, snow can close higher roads, and the best seasons for visiting are late spring through early autumn.

Aspropotamos is also a gateway to other parts of the Pindus. To the north, the mountain villages around Metsovo and the Vikos area of Epirus offer more hiking, and to the east, the monasteries of Meteora near Kalambaka are about an hour away by car. The region offers a peaceful alternative to Greece's coasts, and a few days here suit people who enjoy forest walks, village life and silence.