Byzantine Castles (in Old Town)

The Byzantine castle of Trikala stands on a low hill above the old town, on the site of the ancient acropolis of Trikke, a city that Greek tradition links with the healer-god Asklepios. The fortress was rebuilt in the Byzantine period, during the reign of Justinian, and later repaired and extended under Ottoman rule, so its walls show several layers of stone and brick from different centuries. Surviving towers, stretches of curtain wall and a clock tower give the enclosure its outline, and the ground inside is quiet and shaded by trees.

In Greek mythology, Trikke was one of the oldest places linked with Asklepios, and Homer lists it among the cities that sent ships to Troy under the sons of the healer-god, Podalirios and Machaon. A famous healing sanctuary, the Asklepieion of Trikke, is said to have been among the first dedicated to him, and later healing sanctuaries took it as their model. Little of that early city survives above ground, but its position on the hill beneath the castle is part of what gives the site its depth.

From the walls the view takes in the red roofs of the city, the Lithaios river that runs through the centre and the wide plain of Thessaly beyond. On the horizon on a clear day, the line of the Pindus mountains rises in the west. Below the castle lies the old quarter of Varousi, a neighbourhood of narrow lanes, restored houses and small cafes from the Ottoman era, which is pleasant to walk through before or after the climb. Close by stands the Ottoman mosque of Osman Shah, a reminder of the town's more recent past.

The walk up from the town takes only a few minutes, and the castle is an easy stop of an hour or less. It works well as an introduction to the town's long history, from antiquity through the Byzantine and Ottoman eras to the present day. A garden setting with benches makes it a quiet place for a rest, and in summer the grounds sometimes host cultural events.

Visitors who want to walk up should wear comfortable shoes, since the paths are uneven, and should check locally for current opening arrangements before they go. Combine the visit with a walk along the river and a stop at the Archaeological Museum, and consider continuing to the monasteries of Meteora, a short drive away.