How to Choose a Beach in Crete
Crete has more than a thousand kilometres of coastline, and its beaches fall into three broad types. The north coast, where most resorts are, has long sand and shingle beaches with easy access and a full range of sunbeds and tavernas, but it is exposed to the meltemi, the northerly summer wind that can bring waves in July and August. The south coast faces the Libyan Sea; it is steeper, more remote and often calmer on windy days. The far west and far east have the beaches most people come to photograph, and these are the ones that get crowded.
A useful rule: when the meltemi blows, head south. Greek weather services and local surf forecasts show wind direction a day or two ahead.
The West: Balos, Falasarna and Elafonisi
Balos is a shallow lagoon at the tip of the Gramvousa peninsula, north-west of Kissamos. It is reached either by boat from Kissamos port (often combined with Gramvousa islet and its Venetian fortress) or by an unsealed track followed by a steep walk down. Many rental contracts exclude that track. The lagoon is part of a protected area, it gets very crowded at midday in summer, and visitor limits have been under discussion, so check current rules before going.
Falasarna, on the west coast, is a long stretch of sand split into several sections, with sunbeds at one end and open beach at the other. It faces west, so it is the classic sunset beach of western Crete, and it can have surf when the wind is from the north-west.
Elafonisi, in the south-west corner, is a shallow bay and an islet you can wade to, with sand tinted pink by fragments of shell. It is a Natura 2000 site: stay on marked paths, do not take sand or shells, and keep off the dunes. The shallow water makes it popular with families.
The South-West: Sfakia and Sweetwater
Below the White Mountains, the coast between Sougia and Chora Sfakion is reached largely by ferry or on foot along the E4 European long-distance path. Sweetwater Beach (Glyka Nera), near the car-free village of Loutro, is a pebble beach with freshwater seeping up through the stones; you reach it by footpath from Chora Sfakion or by taxi boat. Marmara Beach, at the mouth of the Aradena Gorge, is another small cove reached by boat or by hiking. These are places for walkers, with little or no facilities.
The South Coast: Preveli, Plakias and Matala
Preveli, south of Rethymno, is where the Kourtaliotis river reaches the sea through a gorge lined with Cretan date palms. You can walk down from a car park above the beach (the climb back is steep) or arrive by boat from Plakias or Agia Galini. Upstream, a path follows the river under the palms.
Plakias has a long, reliable town beach and is a good base for this stretch of coast, with smaller coves such as Damnoni within a short drive.
Matala, south-west of Phaistos, is a sandy bay below a cliff of man-made caves, used as tombs in Roman and early Christian times and famously occupied by hippies in the 1960s and 70s. The caves are an archaeological site with set opening hours and an entrance fee. Combine Matala with the Minoan palace of Phaistos nearby.
The East: Vai, Xerokampos and Chrissi
Vai, in the north-east near Sitia, is known for its natural grove of Cretan date palms behind the beach. The grove is protected and fenced; the beach itself is organised and busy at midday. Itanos, a few minutes north, has small beaches beside an ancient site and is quieter.
Xerokampos, on the south-east coast, is a scattering of sandy coves with low-key accommodation and very little development, a good choice if you want space.
Chrissi (also called Gaidouronisi) is an uninhabited island about 15 kilometres off Ierapetra, reached by daily boats in season. It has fine sand, shallow water and a protected cedar forest. Camping and overnight stays are not allowed, there is very little shade, and you should bring water.
Seitan Limania and the Akrotiri Peninsula
Near Chania airport, Seitan Limania is a narrow inlet between high rock walls with a tiny pebble beach at the end. The path down is short but steep and loose, and there are no facilities. On calm days the water is very clear; on windy days the inlet is unpleasant. Nearby Stavros, where the beach scenes of the film Zorba the Greek were shot, is an easier, sheltered bay.
Practical Tips
- Timing: June and September have warm water and fewer people than July and August. The sea stays swimmable well into October.
- Sunbeds: On organised beaches sunbeds and umbrellas are rented by the day. Greek rules limit how much of a beach can be covered by sunbeds, so there is usually a free section too.
- Shoes: Many Cretan beaches are pebble or rock. Water shoes help, especially at Sweetwater, Seitan Limania and Marmara.
- Respect protected sites: Balos, Elafonisi, Preveli, Vai and Chrissi are all protected areas with rules on camping, vehicles and fires.
