Why Kos town is full of ruins
Kos town, the capital of the island of Kos in the Dodecanese, sits directly on top of the ancient city. The ancient city was founded as the island's capital in 366 BC and grew into a prosperous port, closely associated with Hippocrates, who was born on the island. Repeated earthquakes damaged it, and a severe one in 469 AD marks the end of the ancient city.
Much of what is visible today was uncovered by accident. In 1933 an earthquake destroyed large parts of the town, which was then under Italian rule. During the reconstruction, the Italian Archaeological School excavated the damaged areas, and the Italian town plan kept several of them open as archaeological zones. The result is a town where ruins sit between streets, cafes and apartment blocks.
The Ancient Agora and the harbour zone
The Ancient Agora was the commercial and social centre of the city. It was laid out in the 4th century BC close to the harbour and is one of the largest agoras excavated in Greece. Its restored length is about 300 m, though most of it still lies under the modern town.
The market was built around a large open courtyard, with covered colonnades (stoas) on the north, east and west sides. Shops lined the east side and probably the west. The north stoa connected the market to the city walls near the harbour. The wider harbour zone includes sanctuaries of Aphrodite and Heracles, part of the ancient harbour and sections of the fortifications. Recent excavation near the altar of Dionysus has seen two columns re-erected.
Archaeologists divide the buildings into phases, each following an earthquake. After the earthquake of 142 AD, in the reign of Antoninus Pius, the city was rebuilt with baths, a theatre and a stadium.
The site can be entered on foot from Ippokratous Street or from the street behind the harbour, a short walk from the waterfront. According to the municipality, entry is free.
The western excavations
West of the centre, a second archaeological zone shows a different part of the ancient city: a long paved Roman street (the decumanus), the remains of houses with mosaic floors, and baths. The best-known mosaic shows the abduction of Europa, in a building known as the House of Europa. Other floors show scenes of fights between gladiators and animals. Next to this area are the remains of the gymnasium, part of whose colonnade has been re-erected.
Across the road is the Odeon, a small Roman theatre that has been heavily restored and is sometimes used for performances.
Other sites in the town
- The Plane Tree of Hippocrates stands in the square by the castle. Tradition links it to Hippocrates teaching his students, though the present tree is far younger than the 5th century BC. It is now supported by a metal frame.
- Neratzia Castle, the fortress of the Knights Hospitaller at the harbour entrance, was built from the 14th century and reused many ancient blocks, which can be seen in its walls.
- The Archaeological Museum on Eleftherias Square holds finds from the town and the island, including a Roman mosaic showing Asclepius with Hippocrates.
The Asklepieion
The Asklepieion, a sanctuary of the healing god Asclepius, lies on a hillside about 4 km southwest of the town. It was a sanctuary and a place of medical treatment, built on a series of terraces with views over the sea towards the Turkish coast. Many visitors combine it with the town sites on the same day; local buses, the tourist train and taxis run there in summer, and it is a manageable bike ride. Unlike the agora, it has an entrance fee, and opening hours vary by season.
Planning your visit
- Half a day covers the agora, the plane tree, the western excavations and the Odeon on foot.
- A full day adds the museum, the castle and the Asklepieion.
- The town sites have little shade; go early or late in summer.
- Information boards are sparse at some sites, so the museum is a useful starting point.
- Ruins are uneven underfoot; wear closed shoes.
- The agora and western excavations can be partly seen from the surrounding streets, which is useful if you arrive outside opening hours.
