Diving in Greece: The Background
For decades recreational scuba diving in Greece was banned almost everywhere, permitted only in a few designated areas, because the authorities wanted to protect the huge number of ancient wrecks and objects on the seabed. A 2005 law reversed that position: diving is now allowed in most Greek waters, while protected archaeological zones and some marine park areas remain closed or restricted. As a result, Greece is a newer destination for divers than much of the Mediterranean, and the Aegean has a broad choice of dive centres on the main islands and coasts.
The Aegean is not a tropical coral sea. Visibility is often excellent, frequently 20 to 30 metres on calm days, but marine life is Mediterranean in character, and the attraction lies in underwater landscapes, caves, walls and wrecks as much as in fish.
The Rules That Matter
Greek law treats everything ancient on the seabed as protected. For divers this means:
- Do not touch, move or remove any object that may be an antiquity, including amphora fragments, anchors, pottery shards or worked stone. This applies even to small pieces lying loose on the seabed.
- Report finds. If you see something that looks ancient, note its position and tell your dive centre, which can pass the information to the Ephorate of Underwater Antiquities.
- Respect closed zones. Some areas are closed to diving because of known archaeological remains or military use. Local dive centres know the current limits.
- Dive with a licensed centre if you are not fully independent and familiar with local regulations. Greek dive centres must be licensed, and most follow the standards of international training agencies such as PADI, SSI or CMAS.
- No spearfishing with scuba. Spearfishing is only permitted while freediving, never with breathing apparatus, and is subject to its own restrictions.
Carry your certification card and logbook, and arrange dive insurance that covers recompression treatment. Ask the dive centre where the nearest hyperbaric chamber is; on smaller islands, evacuation may involve a boat or helicopter transfer.
Seasons and Water Temperature
Most dive centres operate from around April or May to October, and some on the larger islands and in Attica stay open longer.
- Spring (April–June): water is cool, about 16–20°C, and visibility is often at its best. A 5 mm or 7 mm wetsuit is usual.
- Summer (July–August): water reaches 23–26°C at the surface, with cooler water below the thermocline. The meltemi, a strong northerly wind, can blow for days in the central Aegean and close exposed sites.
- Autumn (September–October): the water stays warm, the crowds thin out and the meltemi weakens, making this a good time to dive.
Main Dive Areas in the Aegean
- Santorini and Milos. Volcanic islands with lava formations, caves and dramatic drop-offs. Milos has some of the most varied rock formations in the Cyclades.
- Crete. The north coast, especially around Chania, Rethymno and Heraklion, has a long dive season, reefs, caves and some Second World War wreckage.
- The Dodecanese. Rhodes, Kos and Kalymnos offer walls, caves and wrecks close to the Turkish coast. Kalymnos has a long sponge-diving tradition.
- Attica and the Saronic Gulf. Easy to reach from Athens, with reefs, caves and wrecks off the coast and around islands such as Aegina.
- Halkidiki and the north Aegean. Mainland peninsulas with sheltered bays and walls, popular with Greek divers.
- The Sporades. Alonissos and its surrounding islets are within the National Marine Park of Alonissos and the Northern Sporades, home to the endangered Mediterranean monk seal, where diving is subject to park rules.
Underwater Archaeological Sites Open to Divers
Greece has begun opening selected ancient wrecks to recreational divers as "accessible underwater archaeological sites". The first was the Peristera wreck off Alonissos, a merchant ship of the late fifth century BC that sank with a cargo of thousands of wine amphorae. It opened to visiting divers on a pilot basis in 2019.
Access is tightly controlled. Divers can only visit with authorised dive centres, sailing from designated ports, with a briefing on the site and its rules before the dive. Boats use fixed moorings and anchoring is forbidden. Several further wreck and anchor sites in the western Pagasetic Gulf were being prepared for opening, and the number of sites is expected to grow, so check with the Ministry of Culture or an authorised local dive centre for the current list and what certification level each site requires.
Marine Life
Typical sightings include octopus, moray eels, groupers, bream, scorpionfish, nudibranchs, sponges and sea fans in deeper water, as well as seagrass meadows of Posidonia, which shelter much of the coastal life. Sea turtles are occasionally seen. In the south-east Aegean, around Rhodes and Crete, the invasive lionfish has spread in recent years. Monk seals live in parts of the Aegean, but encounters are rare and they should never be approached.
Choosing a Dive Centre
Look for a centre that shows its licence, is affiliated with a recognised training agency and keeps groups small. Ask about equipment servicing, the ratio of guides to divers, what happens when the wind closes the planned site, and whether nitrox is available. Read recent reviews rather than relying on brochures, and if you have not dived for a while, book a refresher dive first.
