East Coast or West Coast
Rhodes has two very different coastlines. The east coast, from Rhodes Town south to Lindos and beyond, is sheltered from the prevailing summer wind, with calm, clear water and most of the island's resorts. The west coast faces the meltemi, the northerly wind that blows hardest in July and August; its beaches are often wavy and pebbly, the water is cooler, and there is much less development.
That has a simple consequence for beach hopping. On a typical summer day, swim on the east coast. On the rare calm days, or if you want space and do not mind waves, explore the west. The main east-coast beaches near Faliraki, Kallithea and Lindos are busy from June to September, but there are smaller coves within a short drive of each.
Near Rhodes Town and Faliraki
Kallithea Springs, about 10 kilometres south of Rhodes Town, is a restored 1920s Italian-era spa complex with domed pavilions, set above small rocky coves. There is an entrance fee to the complex, and the swimming is from rocks and a small beach, good for snorkelling. Arrive early, as it is a popular stop for photo shoots and groups.
Anthony Quinn Bay, just south of Faliraki, is a small cove with very clear green water between pine-covered rocks, named after the actor who filmed The Guns of Navarone here in the early 1960s. It is beautiful and well known, so it is not empty: go early in the morning or in late afternoon. Neighbouring Ladiko bay is similar and slightly less crowded.
Traganou, near Afandou, is a pebble beach with sea caves and rock formations at its northern end. It is organised in part but has stretches where you can find space.
Central East Coast
Agathi, north of Haraki and below the ruined Feraklos castle, is a sandy beach with shallow water, reached by a short road from Haraki. It is one of the more relaxed sandy beaches on this stretch, and the walk up to the castle from Haraki is short.
Tsambika is a long sandy beach below a hill topped by the Tsambika monastery. The climb to the monastery is about 300 steps from the end of the road, and the view along the coast explains the effort. The beach itself is organised and gets busy, but it is long enough to spread out.
Around Lindos
Lindos is the most visited place on Rhodes outside the old town, and its main beach and St Paul's Bay below the acropolis are very busy in summer. For quieter swimming, drive south. Glystra, near Kiotari, is a small horseshoe-shaped sandy bay with calm water. The long beaches of Kiotari and Gennadi further south are rarely crowded because of their size, though parts are backed by hotels.
The Far South: Prasonisi
At the southern tip of the island, Prasonisi is a sandbar linking Rhodes to a small islet. In summer the sand is usually dry and you can walk to the islet; in winter the sea often covers the sandbar. Because the wind on each side is different, the west side has waves and steady wind while the east side is flatter, and Prasonisi is one of the main windsurfing and kitesurfing centres in the eastern Mediterranean. If you are not there for the wind, it is still worth the drive for the landscape, but it is not a calm swimming beach.
The road from Lindos to Prasonisi takes around an hour. Fill up with fuel before heading south, as filling stations are sparse.
The West Coast
The west coast is the place to look for real seclusion. South of the castle at Monolithos, perched on a rock above the sea, a winding road leads down to Fourni, a set of small coves with pebbles and sand, a few rock-cut cave chapels and little else. On days when the wind drops, the water is very clear. Further north, the long pebble beaches near Kamiros and the ancient city of Kamiros are rarely crowded, but they catch the full meltemi.
Summer Practicalities
- Heat: July and August regularly bring temperatures in the mid-30s Celsius. Swim early and late and take a long break in the middle of the day.
- Car hire: A car or scooter is the easiest way to reach the smaller coves. Buses from Rhodes Town serve both coasts, but less frequently to the far south and west.
- Sunbeds and free space: Organised beaches rent sunbeds and umbrellas by the day; quieter coves have no facilities, so bring water, shade and food.
- Shoes: Many of the coves are pebble or rock, so water shoes help.
- Fire risk: Rhodes has suffered serious summer wildfires, notably in 2023. Never light fires or barbecues outdoors, and follow any civil protection alerts.
