Foloi Oak

The Foloi Oak Forest is not on Paros at all. It lies in the Peloponnese, in the mountainous inland of the region of Ilia, about 25 kilometres from Ancient Olympia, and it is one of the largest and most attractive oak woodlands in southern Greece. The plateau of Foloi rises to around 630 metres, covered with oaks of several species that spread out in open stands over gentle slopes. The area is part of the Natura 2000 network of protected sites, which recognises its value for wildlife and landscape.

The forest takes its name from the centaur Pholus of Greek myth, who is said to have lived in the mountains of the area and to have welcomed Heracles with a jar of wine. The story ends badly, with a fight between the centaurs and the hero, but it gives the place a mythological flavour. The plateau is sometimes called the Balcony of Ilia because of the views it offers over the surrounding hills and valleys, and on clear days the landscape stretches in many directions.

The area is a quiet place for walking, cycling and driving. Paths and forest roads cross the plateau, some of them following the valleys of the Erymanthos river and its tributaries, with a path leading toward the Erymanthos Gorge, and there are old stone bridges, watermills and small chapels along the way. In autumn people come to pick mushrooms in the woods, following local rules, and the oaks turn rust and gold. The surrounding villages keep traditional stone houses and serve local food in village tavernas, with meat, cheese and wild greens on the menu.

Because the forest is far from the Cyclades, it is not a stop for anyone travelling around Paros. It fits instead into a trip through the western Peloponnese, combining easily with a visit to Ancient Olympia, the birthplace of the Olympic Games, and the surrounding mountains. A car is necessary, as public transport is very limited, and roads are winding. Visitors should bring water, wear walking shoes and check the weather, since conditions in the hills can change quickly.

Spring brings flowers and fresh green leaves, summer offers cooler air than the coast, and autumn is the best season for colour. The forest is a good place for a slow day of walking and picnicking, away from the busier sites of the Peloponnese.